Making friends with the water

A few years ago I was talking to a friend about surfing and why he loves it so much, and something that he said then has stuck with me and I often think about it when I'm in the water.

And although my memory fades and his precise words fail me, he said something like this,

Sometimes surfing feels like a friendship. It can be as deep as that, which sounds like a cliché. But when you need to, you can go out in the water and just be cool and not talk and you feel better. It's not like a sport, or a lifestyle or anything, but, well, the wave's a mate.

I think it's sweet.


Photo hijacked from The Endless Bummer



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