So I caved.
I spent a happy couple of hours out in the chalky green sea, tickled by drizzling rain and looking back to the green and golden hills and cliffs and the mist-covered mountain rising from the shore. And the waves sure were fun. They were long and clean and right-handers and I was the only longboard out, so I could get all the ones that the shortboarders didn't want (plus a couple they did) and I was super stoked.
I was also really, really cold by the end, with frozen, red hands and feet that I knew were going to itch like hell as they warmed up.
Those weekday surfs you don't expect feel sneaky and secret. They're always worth the distraction from work. Always. But now I'm back at my table, staring out my window at the tide coming in and wishing I could go back to the beach - wet wetsuit and all! But now it's time to work.
Oh, but first it's time to see what clips are online, and I saw this one which is great and interesting to see longboarding from this angle. It looks so much less stable, but more impressive somehow. I know nose-riding is physics, but it still seems like magic to me.
Of course, I do have to ask the question... were there no good female longboarders out that day? Really? Because, it's Noosa and Noosa has plenty of excellent women who surf longboards, so I'm just wondering why there were none included in this clip.
It just really stands out to me that there are no women is all. The cynic in me thinks it's because they aren't in swimmers.
But that's just being cynical...