Wednesday, August 26, 2009
Longing for waves, lover, place, smell, healing, gods, goddesses, water … The December issue of Kurungabaa is on “Longing”. We are looking for submissions – poetry, art, photographs, writing, dreams, frustrations.
For more information, hit up the website.
Monday, August 24, 2009
Monday, August 17, 2009
I jump out of the car and rush because it's already 5pm and it's getting colder and darker by the second.
See you out there. Joe slams his boot shut and turns to go. And then stops.
Shit, do you reckon I need wax? he asks me, looking at his board.
I reckon if you're thinking about it then you probably do, Joe.
Ugh, nah. I already locked my car, he decides and turns again to go.
I've got some if you want? I offer.
What is it?
Orange Sex Wax.
Ah, a connoisseur. He walks over and takes the dirty, white cake out of my hand. I didn't think you'd use this.
Huh? I look at him, confused.
Well, what type of wax did you think I'd use?
I dunno. Maybe Palmers or something.
Nope. No Palmers. I just get this.
Although I got the feeling it was throwaway line, I was instantly intrigued as to how I could be so particularly defined as a type of wax? And why it even matters?
I've known Joe for ages but I hadn't ever surfed with him til he recently began dabbling in longboards. He's a good surfer but usually surfs much different breaks than me, and I think he is kind of surprised to be in the water with me now.I also think he had a host of assumptions about me and surfing before we first surfed together the other evening.
The next morning I bumped into him and some other friends down at the shops and we all got talking about surfing and longbording. Like quite a few people I know, the other guys don't EVER ride longboards (no, never, ever, not at all and don't even bring it up because they will shun you like you have the plague!) and they were wondering why Joe is longboarding more at the moment,
I dunno actually. It's fun. It feels different. A different experience.
The other guys look unconvinced and one of them, Rob, pipes up,
I'll never ride a mal. Not til I'm old and fat and can't ride anything else.
I roll my eyes at him, drink from my coffee and stay quiet. Why bother arguing? I don't care anyway. I don't care how or where or what he surfs, or why. He might as well surf on the moon for all it bothers me. He surfs his way and thinks it's the only way and doesn't really rate any other approach to surfing. Thruster, fast waves, barrels: that's Rob.
And that's fine. I have loads of friends who surf like that, but I don't and it doesn't mean I have to and it doesn't mean I want to. And it doesn't mean I have to be so close-minded about the ways that other people surf either.
Rob is looking at me, wanting me to bite. But I won't. I won't bite because despite all the shit he gives me, I've realised something that he doesn't know...
...we both use Orange Sex Wax.
Friday, August 14, 2009
Tuesday, August 11, 2009
And although my memory fades and his precise words fail me, he said something like this,
Sometimes surfing feels like a friendship. It can be as deep as that, which sounds like a cliché. But when you need to, you can go out in the water and just be cool and not talk and you feel better. It's not like a sport, or a lifestyle or anything, but, well, the wave's a mate.
I think it's sweet.
Monday, August 10, 2009
Thursday, August 06, 2009
Wednesday, August 05, 2009
Oh, I broke my leg! But I'm sick of not surfing so, yeah.
Jeez, are you serious? Is it ok to be out here on it?
Oh, I had to get this thing on because I walked on it too much and it didn't heal...
Ummm, surfing on it might not help either!? And doesn't it make that boot stink?
I'm not really standing up though! And yeah, it gets wet and won't dry, but, whatever.
And she wasn't either. She would paddle into a wave on an old, borrowed McCoy and when she got it she would kneel on one leg with the other one bent behind her.
She gets a full ten points for enthusiasm!
Monday, August 03, 2009
I don't know if I'm supposed to say that, but I do. It's not about status or anything, it's about access and freedom. If I didn't have a car, my life would become completely impossible and I would probably fall into a fairly significant pit of despair. I know that sounds melodramatic, but at this point in my life, my car enables my life to run the way I want it to, the way I need it to. Living between two different places that are a couple of hours apart and being a surfer of the longboarding variety, a car comes in handy.
This car, Agatha (Aggie), is my third car after Emily (white '79 Corolla) and Ruby (maroon '93 Excel), and while she is in no way my favourite (Em will forever claim that revered title), she is my most user friendly. The best thing about her is that my board fits INSIDE, and the worst thing is there's no cup holder - it really annoys me.
The boot has lots of room and I keep a roll call of items in there at all times. I have a plastic box that contains;
- a selection of swimmers
- fin key
- 4 clothes pegs (!!?)
- (I used to have moisturiser in there too, but somehow I've let that slide. I must fix that.)
I have two towels, a sleeping bag, and a rain jacket and I also keep a t-shirt, tights, socks and trainers to run in. There's also usually some skanky old bottle of water floating around as well.
If nothing else, I'm prepared.
Sunday, August 02, 2009
Every evening that I've been home for the past few weeks has been spent at one of my favourite breaks, which also happens to be one of the busiest breaks IN THE WORLD*!! The waves haven't been anything mind-blowing, but they've been fun and so, so long and glassy, and even thought it's the middle of winter here, it's been incredibly warm and you can surf happily til well after sundown! Basically, it's not a bad way to end your day!
Anyway, last night Jules and I paddled out at about 5pm, hoping to get a couple of waves before it got too dark. It looked crowded, but no-one seemed to be dropping in much. We walked out through the shin-deep water to the rocks, and sat on our boards, waiting for something worth paddling for. I didn't wait long til something soft, glassy and fat came my way, so I paddled into it and set a little line (not much else to do on waves that fat!).
The wave seemed to go for ages and as I was gliding along it was like a massive catch up session, with smiles, hollers, waves and calls of 'Hey Bec!' flying at me from every direction. I saw more crew on that 10 second wave than I have seen all week! Jules, Brett, Ev, Hals, Erin, Raf, Sage, Paul, Tom, Adam, Ang, Drew... It was hilarious. As the wave faded, I fell laughing into the warm water, and paddled back out, surfing and laughing with friends til it became too dark to see...
*this may or may not be a slight exaggeration - mostly not.