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I got the funniest wave I've ever caught yesterday...

Every evening that I've been home for the past few weeks has been spent at one of my favourite breaks, which also happens to be one of the busiest breaks IN THE WORLD*!! The waves haven't been anything mind-blowing, but they've been fun and so, so long and glassy, and even thought it's the middle of winter here, it's been incredibly warm and you can surf happily til well after sundown! Basically, it's not a bad way to end your day!

Anyway, last night Jules and I paddled out at about 5pm, hoping to get a couple of waves before it got too dark. It looked crowded, but no-one seemed to be dropping in much. We walked out through the shin-deep water to the rocks, and sat on our boards, waiting for something worth paddling for. I didn't wait long til something soft, glassy and fat came my way, so I paddled into it and set a little line (not much else to do on waves that fat!).

The wave seemed to go for ages and as I was gliding along it was like a massive catch up session, with smiles, hollers, waves and calls of 'Hey Bec!' flying at me from every direction. I saw more crew on that 10 second wave than I have seen all week! Jules, Brett, Ev, Hals, Erin, Raf, Sage, Paul, Tom, Adam, Ang, Drew... It was hilarious. As the wave faded, I fell laughing into the warm water, and paddled back out, surfing and laughing with friends til it became too dark to see...


*this may or may not be a slight exaggeration - mostly not.

Comments

  1. A sesh wiv your mates? Nofin betta!

    ReplyDelete
  2. Oh my gosh, that just sounds like so much fun.

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  3. It is fun! It is silly, silly, fun. And it's been like that all week.

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  4. shred-man saw you laughing.

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  5. Shred-man sees all...

    ...from in front of me on the wave after he drops in!

    Haha! So sic.

    ReplyDelete

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