Showing posts from July, 2009

Dear & Yonder

Frustrated at my apparent inability to actually commit words to paper this morning, I went and looked for some inspiration at my some of my favourite blogs including one where I found this film poster (thanks!)...

Click the poster for a link to the trailer

Although perhaps a little cliche (water-colours, slow-motion shots, giggling), the surfing looks like its rad and this film looks pretty interesting. While seemingly full of the usual suspects, their blurb seems to point to exploring women who aren't professional or already well-known, which is exciting I think. Although they are amazing, I do get sick of seeing the same women surfers all the time, so it's good to see new surfers, styles and stories about women. Although there seem to be a growing number of examples coming out of the USA, these kinds of films are sadly lacking here in Australia!

I want to see it!

So now, instead of finding inspiration to write, I have simply found a reason to wish I was living in New York at the…

Music to glower to

Whenever I'm pissed off/have a seething rage/slightly cranky and find myself in need of a good 'angry' song, I always find that a Johnny Cash* moment does the trick...

And The Horrors aren't too bad for it either...

*Yes friends. I know it's a Depeche Mode song. But this version is so much better!

One surf

SeagullsTerns2 x Brahminy Kites (aka Red-backed Sea Eagles and the logo for my old hockey club) 3 x pelicans (all flying together) lots of fish a pod of dolphins feeding under my feeta shark (apparently) a Humpback whale (breathing not breaching)bush turkeys sunshine

The time that 1980 got it so so right!

Please, try and describe something to me that is better than the heady combination of Olivia Newton-John, ELO (that's Electric Light Orchestra to the uninitiated), rollerskating, gold shoes and jumpsuits.

"Xanadu! Your neon lights will shine for you, Xanadu!

Xanadu indeed!

Although she could probably stand to lose that fluffy-haired guy.

(Is it Friday yet?)

Gerry Wedd has an exhibition!!

If you are lucky enough to live in Sydney at the moment, then you might like to take the time to get on down to the Legge Gallery in Redfern and check out the Gerry Wedd exhibition on there. But it only runs til the 25th July so hurry!!

That's what I'd be doing anyway!!

I've written about him and his work before and I am a fan and I can assure you that if you go, you won't be disappointed!

And if you do go, can you please lust over it all on my behalf as well. Thanks.

P.S. And buy me something pretty while you're there..?!

Dear 1989, what were you thinking?

Yes. Yes I did go and find this clip today.

You only have to watch it to the 1.30 mark, but dear lord is it worth it!

(Cringe factor? One billion!!)

Some days it pays to have a good sense of humour...

This morning I paddled out at Wategos - it was small, but it was a spectacularly sunny winter day and every so often a nice set would come through that made the whole exercise worth it.

So after some conversation and consultation with the old mal crew on the beach, I went out...

I got a few waves and it was nothing special, but it was fine. I was just cruising and enjoying the day, blah, blah, blah. The old guys would paddle past me and take waves, but whatever, it was fine.

Then a nice set came through. I decided they could kiss my arse and I was getting me some of that. There was a guy behind me, but he'd just come back out and he knew it was my wave so he backed off a bit. I turned and paddled harder and just as I felt the wave catch me, I also felt a "helping hand" on my foot, giving me a push into the wave.


I mean seriously. How many dude-stra…

The Broken Pipe

There is some new (or newly revealed?) graffiti at one of my favourite local breaks...

I asked around a bit and no-one seems to know much about it, let alone who might have done it. At least it makes a change from the usual focus on gripes about the presence of Sydney folk. The irony for me is that although this is a beach I almost literally grew up on (and still spend much time at now I'm in my adult stages), I now live part-time in Brisbane. So where does that leave me within this pathetic piece of localism? I guess it depends who wrote it and where I fit into their ideas of surfing...

Another funny bit of spray work (that is presumably from the same aerosol can) is this piece of hilarity residing beside the showers...

Its hard to read (damn sunlight!) but it says NO RETRO FISHES! Hmmm, are there other types of 'fishes' - perhaps 'modern fishes', 'cutting-edge fishes' or 'fish fishes' - which are perhaps more acceptable?


Get a grip people! Get a …


I've noticed I have predilections when it comes to my post-surf munch...

Three options;
Cafe 1 - Banana and coconut bread and two coffees all smashed at a table in the sun.
Cafe 2 - Bacon and egg roll with BBQ sauce and two coffees at the big table inside while reading magazines.
Home - Avocado, Vegemite and lemon on toast, lots of cups of tea and the paper.

Three options;
1. Falafel
2. Sushi
3. Whatever's in the fridge/cupboard.
(All options finish with an organic doughnut from town)

Only one option as far as I'm concerned;
1. Udon noodles with tempura veg - YUM!!

...and water! Always lots of water!

The Women and The Waves - film review

Several months ago, I got a bit of a shock when a friend of a friend sniped at me,

“Why do women surf and then make it all about gender?”

I’d like to point out that he was sitting next to me and rudely failed to introduce himself or to even look up from flicking through the Saturday paper. He was, as it transpired, a complete arsehole, but nonetheless I patiently responded…

“They don’t.”

He snorted and a rather discouraging and upsetting conversation ensued, but his question got me to consider whether women do make surfing all about gender? The short answer of course is no, they don’t. Being a woman in the surf can make surfing a somewhat specific experience, but this doesn’t mean that it’s always front and centre in our minds. Being a woman in the water can also mean negotiating a host of different issues or experiences than men, but it doesn’t mean that you’re always conscious of it. Just like the way I negotiate the guys behaviour in the water they have to negotiate mine too and that m…


Do you remember how my boards were stolen a couple of months ago? Yeah, me too. Well, I got a new one made and it's pretty freaking rad... I'm short on dollars, so my dad gave me some (thanks Pete!!) and my friends got it made and coloured and all up it's pretty wonderful .

And I surfed it this afternoon and I am stoked.


I clamber down the sandbags that now constitute my beach track and head south along the sand. The sky is clear and the sun is warm and my jumper comes off pretty fast. There's some little waves breaking out the front that might be fun later. It's been weeks since I've been anywhere near the beach, so I just want to go for a walk and look around and check it out again.

The beach seems pretty empty, but I notice a couple of guys up in the dunes looking south, checking the surf. And a couple more. And more. And some with chairs. They're really engrossed. It must still be working further down. Harley told me last night that it was about the only bank in the whole region doing anything at the moment.

The guys stand low in their bodies, arms stuffed in pockets or folded self-consciously across their chest. Low-slung jeans, checked shirts, hoodies and beanies (and the odd pair of ugg-boots) protect them from the wind and cold, and mark them out among the sea-grass and banksias.…