I've told you about my crazy nice, Mame Diarra, in the past. Her growing relationship to the beach and to the ocean has been something that I have taken great delight in , and which I have been stoked to see happen on the same sands and in the same water as my own oceanic life began. This summer, her love of waves has become fully fledged and it is almost impossible to get her to the beach now without her little foam bodyboard - her 'surfboard' - in tow. I take her into the shorebreak and choose 'big ones' for her to catch into shore. She kicks her little, not-quite-four-year-old legs to keep her momentum going as the whitewash carries her across the shallow water and into shore. Mame Diarra can't swim, but that doesn't stop her as she fearlessly runs back out to me, standing waist-deep in the water. Her brother, Falilou is the same. He paddles out the back to catch unexpectedly big waves on his bodyboard. The biggest thing holding him back is me, as I s...