One for the nay-sayers

I left my place early on Saturday morning, tied my board to the roof and headed towards the ocean. I was feeling shitty and tired and cranky and wanted, nay, needed to find a wave. Any wave.

I checked a couple of places on the way down and bumped into a friend who confirmed the tiny swell-status of the day and sent me off to the last bastion - into town...

I pulled up at Wategos and silently screamed - my last stop was small, lumpy and on-shore. I sat and stared and stared and decided to go out anyway because there wasn't a single person out there. That's right, empty Wategos, not a soul to be seen. It was crap, but at least I wouldn't be competing for crap.

I paddled out and (surprise, surprise) started to feel better. The water was clear and warm-ish, the sun was beating down and the wind wasn't too bad actually. There was a big pod of dolphins feeding and leaping about and a huge turtle was lurking about underneath me. And, as it happened, I got wave, after wave, after, wave. Indeed, they were small and messy, but they were fun and they were all mine.


After about half an hour, a couple of other people came out to partake in the mess-fest, so the moment passed. But the moment ruled while it lasted.

The best bit though was when I spoke to this chick who was catching the white-wash in by the shore and who I'd never met before. She called out to me and told me that she'd been watching me from the beach earlier on. She'd decided not to come out because she thought I looked like I was having so much fun and she wanted to leave it all to me! So she sat on the beach and waited until some other people joined me in the water before she did too. Generous much? She wasn't anywhere near where I was surfing, but she still left me to it. I can't say I would have done the same.

Magic happens? Practice random acts of kindness? The kindness of strangers? Witches do it in a cirlce? Whatever. That cat has been reading her Byron bumper-stickers.

And what a lady!


  1. I think the thing is that the girl hasn't been reading the bumper stickers.


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