I just watched this short film from Vice about people who surf at Mavericks. Mavericks seems to be the break of the moment, which I guess is directly related to heavy marketing for the forthcoming film, Chasing Mavericks, which looks, um, kind of, well, kind of like every other surf film about heavy waves. That is: Young guy with a troubled home life aspires to surf heavy and somewhat mythical break, so finds a grizzled mentor, and after a difficult and determined 'journey' he achieves his goals. Meh.
Anyway, this short film is much more interesting and gives a range of perspectives and experiences related to surfing this break.
The two things that really caught my attention were Sarah Gerhardt talking about trying to be calm about surfing the break for the first time, while all the guys she was with were getting amped on tunes, and Flea describing that when he admitted he had a drug problem, his sponsors walked away from him and withdrew their support. Also cool to hear how and why people's relationships to taking risks change (or not) when they have kids. In-ter-es-ting stuff.
(Apologies for the weird embedding issues on my posts. I'll try and sort it out sometime soon...)