Post-surf bliss
They certainly can't compete with being in the water, but post-surf rituals are a pretty awesome part of surfing. (Well, they are when they involve golden sunlight and croissants anyway.)
April 2013
January 2013
Laura Crane has skin in the game: a surf story in five parts*
*The title of this essay is inspired by Kylie Maslen's recent article about women's sport, 'Skin in the Game '. The essay itself is dedicated to my friends in the Institute of Women's Surfing (Europe), with my thanks for sharing your stories and friendship and resources. I. Oh hey, surf media! Surf media is such an interesting world. I used to consume it voraciously, reading everything I could find - every book, magazine, website, and blog. I was trying to understand it, to understand the world it was describing, to see the patterns and themes as well as the points of difference and resistance. I wasn't out to create a typology or anything like that, but to get my head around what it is that we say to ourselves as writers, editors, photographers and readers. I wanted to know who was talking and who might be reading and to know what was missing from these stories; to find the gaps. It didn't take long for me to turn away from mainstream print magazin...
Comments
Post a Comment