I really should change the wax on my boards more often, huh.
But then, I look at this kinda gross ball of filthy wax and think of all the fun I had building it up - all the footsteps, sunscreen, sweat, sand and salt - and I can't really be too bummed out. Kinda gross, but kinda awesome too.
I. Oh hey, surf media!
Surf media is such an interesting world.
I used to consume it voraciously, reading everything I could find - every book, magazine, website, and blog. I was trying to understand it, to understand the world it was describing, to see the patterns and themes as well as the points of difference and resistance. I wasn't out to create a typology or anything like that, but to get my head around what it is that we say to ourselves as writers, editors, photographers and readers. I wanted to know who was talking and who might be reading and to know what was missing from these stories; to find the gaps.
It didn't take long for me to turn away from mainstream print magazines, in which I…
It's a truth universally acknowledged that social media can be a real drag. Arguments, comparisons, bitchiness, nastiness, narcissism and more all play out across Facebook, Instagram, Snapchat, blogs and more. I've had my fair share of shitty social media interactions, but what I've found is that it doesn't have to be that way.
Most of my experiences on social media has been really positive, and I've made some wonderful connections over the years with wonderful people. I've met so many folk through blogging and Instagram, and are people I care about and have various relationships with. Like me, Jamie, Toddy, Mick, Sarah and Felix are people you might have come across on your digital travels, and they are people I've come to care about and to , different degrees, to know. For me, these relationships are some of the best of social media.
I love connecting with people and projects in various places around the world, and being able to watch their work develop a…
When people ask me why I didn’t surf til so much later in my life, I have an easy answer for them,“Because I didn’t want to be around teenage boys.”I copped enough shit from them at school and at parties and in town and on the beach, so I didn’t really feel the need to put myself in a situation where I would have to deal with them en masse, let alone while I was in a pair of swimmers! It’s not that I didn’t like being with the guys at all, it’s just that, in a group they were generally unbearable. Hanging out with them, I had heard lots of conversations that they had about girls. They would laugh and talk about who was putting out with who and how and where and what that meant for her reputation and who was going to have a go next. I knew that they weren't always like that, but I also knew that a lot of their behaviour was unethical and it freaked me out because if they did that to those girls, I knew it could happen to me as well. I hated it and the whole thing made me sick. I kn…