Gap filler

I have been meaning to write here.

I have been meaning to write here about my move to New Zealand. About my little cabin overlooking the sea, about the black sand, the green water, the tides, the moon, the sky, the feather-duster plants, and my embarrassing hesitation to get in the water. I've been meaning to tell you about the day the swell was about 10 foot and no-one was out, about the days it has been tiny and crowded, about how I've already found women to surf with here, how they encouraged me into the sea, and about how I went negotiating a left-hand point break for the first time. And did I mention getting to watch the sun set into the sea from my window almost every afternoon?

But despite all my intentions, I've not yet managed to get words on a page, so this little entry and these images will have to do for now. But will some one please bug me about this - I clearly need a push!


  1. Lovely! Please write more soon.

  2. Ummm... Beautiful? Mesmerising? Words fail me and clearly you too. Hurry up- I want to know more about this place I'm going to visit next year with a few Rens in tow...

  3. Oh Lun. What a lovely thought! xx


Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Laura Crane has skin in the game: a surf story in five parts*

'A Lunar Cycle': Easkey Britton in the ocean

'Notes For a Young Surfer' by Clifton Evers - a review.