On Friday, I went for my first surf in a month. It was wonderful!
I went with some friends - Noe, Nat and Rich. We turned up at the only viable spot, where it was breaking one to two foot. It was small, but the waves were lovely and clean and they were breaking all along the beach. Luckily, there was no real sweep and the tide had taken a lot of water out, so the paddling was easy for my poor, exercise-deprived body.
The sky was clouded, dull and grey but the water was clear and warm (especially considering it's winter!) and we all went out with a fair bit of enthusiasm for it all. And we got a lot of little waves. A lot. And it was lots of fun.
At one point, I was lying on my board, smiling and waving at Noe as she paddled into a pretty little wave and she was smiling back and then, all of a sudden, the sun burst out through the grey sky! The water glowed green and everything turned to glass. As I watched Noe paddle, the wave she was on lit up from within, light sparkling out through the water beneath and around her. It was truly beautiful. She jumped up and caught that wave, trimming and turning for a good 50 metres until it spilled and disappeared into the shallows.
Sometimes, I have moments in the water where I remember why I love surfing so, so much. Often these moments aren't about me as much as they are about the ocean, the sky, the sun, my friends, and sharing all of these things at once. It's like a real feeling of being in the world.
This was one of those moments, and it will sustain me until I get in the water next. Whenever that might be...