I decided to work from home today and I was focused and ready to get some runs on the board. But then I saw my friend, Kylie, who let me know there were waves about...

So I caved.

I spent a happy couple of hours out in the chalky green sea, tickled by drizzling rain and looking back to the green and golden hills and cliffs, and the mist-covered mountain rising from the shore. And the waves sure were fun. They were long and clean and right-handers and I was the only longboard out, so I could get all the ones that the shortboarders didn't want (plus a couple they did) and I was super stoked.

I was also really, really cold by the end, with frozen, red hands and feet that I knew were going to itch like hell as they warmed up.

Weekday surfs you don't expect feel sneaky and secret. They're always worth the distraction from work. Always. Now I'm back at my table, staring out my window at the tide coming in and wishing I could go back to the beach - wet wetsuit and all! But now it's time to work.

Oh, but first it's time to see what clips are online, and I saw this one which is great and interesting to see longboarding from this angle. It looks so much less stable, but more impressive somehow. I know nose-riding is physics, but it still seems like magic to me.

Of course, I do have to ask the question... were there no good female longboarders out that day? Really? Because, it's Noosa and Noosa has plenty of excellent women who surf longboards, so I'm just wondering why there were none included in this clip?



  1. Anonymous10:57 AM

    Thanks for sharing Rebecca. Hope you're enjoying our fair can be a moody, challenging and cold place but those days when you get your own are awesome, and unbeatable!

  2. Thoroughly enjoying them - thank you so much, Anon. Aotearoa is a beautiful country, and the landscape never fails to impress me. I'm even liking the colder water!!

  3. Anonymous10:42 PM

    So we should now ask why there are no men every time a video doesn't show a surfing male? Maybe there were no women out that day or maybe the video focused only on 2 or 3 individuals despite numerous in the lineup as the film maker was only shooting his friends? Not everything is an anti women conspiracy. . Don't let feminism define every element of your life Bec.. Some people surf for fun without prejudice. .

  4. Hey Anon. I never suggested this was a conspiracy - don't make out that I'm being hysterical.

    I surf for fun without prejudice too, and this is a lovely little interwebs clip and maybe he's just shooting his mates - I get that and that's fine - but I watched it and enjoyed it AND the absence of women on day like this in Noosa stood out to me. It being a clip posted in a public space, I'm allowed to respond to it. I didn't say it was shit, I didn't say it was sexist, I said the absence of women stood out to me.

    I made an observation because, as a woman AND as a feminist, the absence of women in most clips that do the online rounds stands out for me. There are so few high profile clips that 'don't show a single surfing male' so your point is pretty redundant and you know it. I've spoken about this a billion times, so instead of going on at length here, I'll let previous words do the talking. You should go through the comments too:

    Feminism does impact every aspect of my life - as does being a political leftie, being a woman, being Australian, being white, being straight and so on - and I'm not going to apologise or feel bad for that.

    Also, in case you didn't notice, this is a blog focused on women and surfing...


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