Making Friends With The Neighbours

Following Chanel's love affair with surfing , it's not surprising to see images of women who surf being used in other luxury campaigns. This time it's Hermès who surfs . I can't find the film to embed (yet), but you can check it out via this link . Famed for their exquisite scarves and handbags, Hermès is luxe to a new level. This little film they've shot to promote their beautiful, hand made, labour intensive scarves (apparently engraving the silk screen takes 750hours!), is very pretty. It does all the usual things relating to mainstream marketing images of women's surfing - young, slim, feminine, white women - but it's pretty. The bit where the scarf shimmers like the surface of the water is mesmerising. I wish there had been more of that because the rest isn't particularly interesting or innovative in terms of images. Like the Chanel film   and film and images before it, this is hard to read or think about or critique this o...

Fred Pawle , is a  journalist with The Australian * and is well known amongst surfers for his contributions about surfing and surfing culture. He is a talented writer, a driven journalist, and his stories are engaging and often touch on difficult issues in surfing. I mean, he's a journalist, so that's kind of the deal. For me, one of his best pieces is about Matt Branson and homophobia in surfing . I abhor/ed Stab magazine - a publication that contributed to ongoing sexualisation of women, (especially athletes, entrenching the issues they face in obtaining sponsorship) and once ran a story that talked about "how to go from date to consensual rape". Truly, they did - but Pawle's profile on Branson was great. He's spent a bunch of time up in Byron Bay recently, writing stories relating to the spate of shark attacks and the different community responses to them along the coast. Some of the responses differ hugely and they're causing a lot of controversy on ...

The winners of the 2017 Australian Surfing Awards were announced on Sunday at a ceremony in Newcastle. Pretty exciting stuff! It's easy to argue that awards like this are kind of empty, but they're not. These kinds of events and awards area moment to think about what surfing is, what is important in surfing and surfing culture, and to talk about the people we see as contributing to that. Awards like this are one of the times surfing culture is visible in the mainstream media, so it's worth paying them attention to see something of who surfers are supposed to be, or who, at the very least, surfers represented as being. So here are the 2017 winners! Australian Surfing Hall of Fame inductee: Peter Crawford Male Surfer of the Year: Matt Wilkinson Female Surfer of the Year: Tyler Wright Rising Star: Ethan Ewing ASB Greater Good Award: Walk for Waves – Jade ‘Red’ Wheatley Peter Troy Lifestyle Award: Jack McCoy Milwaukee Heavy Water Award: Jamie Mitchell Simon Anderson ...

A couple of days ago, I saw this film about 19-year-old surfer Kadiatu Kamara (aka KK) from Sierra Leone. It's a mesmerising film, in which surfing is a very recognisable aspect of KK's life, whose life is, in some ways, entirely unrecognisable to my own. (Check out the rest of the Surfs Up series at Nowness ) What I like most about this film is the lack of narrative about white people bringing surfing to an African community. In this film, surfing is KK's own, removed from California, Waikiki, the North Shore, Byron Bay, Biarritz, Tahiti... And yet, we can hear ourselves in KK's relationship to the waves - to that sense of removal from the mundane, the stressful or the sad. KK's story is a surfing story, and yet it's something else as well. It's a story in which how we look, who we know, where we're local and have status is unimportant. It's a story that doesn't claim a place, or demand anything. It's a story that reminds me what surf...

Life can be brutal. Often we focus on the joy and fun and freedom of surfing. There they are, these pleasures of surfing sparkling in the water, rising in us as we jump to our feet, filling us as we feel our strength pulling us into a breaking wave. Much more rarely do we talk about those times when surfing is beyond our reach. Ageing. Injury. Illness. Disability. Obligations of parenting and work. The only one I can think of is my favourite surf film ever,  The Surf Magazines Don't Talk About Lapsed Catholics , by Toddy Stewart. The Surf Magazines Don't Talk About Lapsed Catholics from Todd Stewart on Vimeo . I see myself in this film. Maybe not in the murky water, but in the guilt of not surfing and changing access to the sea. I see myself in the frustration of knowing myself as a surfer, but realising I rarely surf anymore. For now. But films like Lapsed Catholics should be more common in surfing culture, because experiences like that are. I have wat...

I've been really enjoying Robin Lanaei's illustrations that she's posting on Instagram . It's so easy to recognise myself and other kinds of surfers in her drawings, sometimes, when I don't even want to! I like that she's drawing about the everyday things that happen in the lineup, the internal dialogues that we have with ourselves, the things we'd like to say and do. I like her take on the moments of shame and embarrassment when we miss a wave or kook one, aware that the lineup is watching and judging us, while at the same time making sure we know it really doesn't matter. I like that the girls she draws aren't trying to be mermaids or #gurfers or anything like that. Instead, they're just people - grumpy and cranky and determined and sneaky and funny and fun. They seem to be white girls, for sure. But they're certainly recognisable in so many ways and with the kind of complexity and real-ness that I'm always searching for in any kind o...

In Australia, we have a Federal election coming up on 2nd July . Even more significant, it's a double dissolution , which means the whole government is dissolved and is up for election, including the entire  (Senators sit for 6 years and usually only half the Senate is elected every 3 years). A double dissolution can be called if the Senate and House of Representatives fail to agree on a piece of legislation twice. The Governor-General (the Queen's is still our Head of State and the G-G is her representative. I KNOW!!) calls it, but the Prime Minister asks them to do so. There have only been seven double dissolutions since Australia's Federation, so it's a pretty big deal. Since we have three layers of government - federal, state and local - and since under Australian law, it is compulsory that all citizens over the age of 18 enrol and vote in elections , many Australians find elections annoying. Not me though. I love them. I love elections for lots of reasons, not le...

via ASAP Science

One of the things I love most about surfing, is being outdoors and in nature. I love watching the surface of the water, the changing colours of the sky and sea, the clouds that drift across and light up in the sunrise and sunset, the birds that wheel above us, the creatures that swim below and around us, the line of the shore from the water, and the cool and warmth of the air, water and wind. Being immersed in this world of light and colour and sensations and creatures has taught me a lot about my place in the world. It's taught me that I'm part of something, that my behaviour has effects, and that being a human in the sea has consequences. It's taught me I am not in control of the world and the plants and animals that inhabit it, but instead that I'm a part of that web - that ecosystem. With so much of my focus on surfing being about the culture and the relationships between people - good and bad - there have been times when immersing myself in the beauty and immen...

*To be filed under: #notallmen One of the joys of life is walking alone, taking in the world around us. I love it. I love walking around cities in the day and night, looking at buildings, watching people, learning the lay of the land, but even more I love walking on the beach or in the forest - surrounded by trees and sand and rocks and water and birds and animals and clouds and sunrises and sunsets.Walking alone, taking it all in. Sometimes, I even run on tracks like these, challenging myself as I negotiate the twists and turns on the concrete paths, roads or bush tracks. One of the places I often walk and run is the Lighthouse track in Byron Bay. It's beauty and accessibility makes it a very popular track with all kinds of people, from those returning from watching the most easterly sunrise on the mainland, to pairs and groups of women walking and chatting, pairs of men walking (and chatting?), as well as lots of people on their own running and walking, often with earphone...

It's no secret that I'm not a fan of the notion of mobile phones in the surf . I know it would be really useful for those whose jobs mean they're on call etc., by giving them more flexibility in the water, but still, the idea fills me with dread. I accept that it's inevitable, but it sucks. Voluntarily and involuntarily, our lives these days are so connected to friends, social networks, knowledge, news and media. W're constantly looking, listening, watching, reading, absorbing, responding, capturing, posting and sharing, and I'm totally part of that and I think there's lots that is wonderful about it. I mean, I'm writing this on online an online blogging site, using social media video sharing capabilities of YouTube, with text messages popping up on my screen and two email accounts open in my browser, all while listening to Cat Power via Spotify. So, yeah. Because I have so little discipline when it comes to being logged on, I really love those moments...

As it happens, I've moved back to Australia! Back home to Byron Bay. It was a sudden move and it feels weird, but it's also wonderful and I'm enjoying the familiarity of home. Yesterday, as I was looking at the shitty waves being messed about by a strong on-shore and strong currents, I noticed some commotion over at the Table of Knowledge*. I could see there was attention being paid to the nose of a longboard, so I went to have a stickybeak. Sure enough, the board was damaged. A long incision that cut through the whole board, deep into the body of the nose. The cut was as long at the span of my outstretched hand from my middle finger to my thumb. Obviously, the board had been hit hard. It was a dolphin! the man told me. He looked, while not exactly in shock, certainly in bewilderment. Yeah look, it's left some skin behind , John pointed out, sticking his fingers into the torn fibreglass. I stood, mouth open. I took the opportunity to talk for a while ab...

And here's one of the waves she caught in the final (when she already knew she was the world champion). Seriously an inspiring athlete. And woman .

As much as I'm loathe to contribute even slightly to this article getting any more attention than it's click-bait style writing aims to achieve, I still really want to say to Alex Haro and the rest of The Inertia editorial staff, 'Are you fucking serious?' ' 3 Reasons How Surfing Can Make You Into A Full Blown Sex Machine ' not only hacks at rules of grammar, but is also an actual article that The Inertia published on their website. So if/when you go ahead and click to read this piece of crap, lad's mag style, stereotype-filled 'comedy' piece,  keep in mind that it's written by the Senior Editor at The Inertia , a website that has variously described itself as 'The Thinking Surfer's Website', and the 'Definitive Surfing Community'. The Inertia is a website that flits unreflexively between publishing strong articles that highlight and argue against the sexism, homophobia and racism that can be so common in surfing cultu...

So, I know it has been around for a while, and I also hate that this is ultimately advertising but this little film is pretty great: Some super interesting points that help highlight how and why surfing was possible or not for women in the past. For example, the capacity to carry their own surfboard (which was limited by the weight and length) and the limited number of other women participating. Fingers crossed I get to live and surf as long as Gwyn.

The last couple of months, the weather has been pretty crappy here, making it hard to get outside to run, to walk and to generally be outdoors. To be fair, it has been winter. But last weekend there were some wonderful, sunshine-y breaks in the weather. Sadly these didn't include any waves - through circumstance and timing, I hadn't surfed in weeks, but I feel pretty zen about that these days. There'll always be more waves, and in the meantime I still got to go for a long walk. I rarely check the surf before I go for a walk, so I always wonder if when I get to the top of the hill if I'm going to see anything tempting below me. A few times I've crested the hill and found myself running the kilometre or two home to get my board and rush back to the beach, or kicking myself for not being more organised. Other times I've been floored by the crazy, messy ocean in front of me - whitewash as far as I can see. Last weekend was somewhere in between. It wasn...

I haven't written much on my blog this year. I've wanted to but the stories didn't seem to flow from my brain into words on the screen the way I've always found they have. It's not writer's block because I've been writing lots of other things in other places, so perhaps my word count got used up. Or something. I don't know. But I think about it a lot because I really love writing this blog. Actually, I really love writing. But I have a couple of stories I want to share from today and last weekend, so I'll write them up over the next couple of days. In the mean time, how beautiful is Aotearoa!!

Only because I'm feeling equal parts 'ugh', 'meh' and impressed. On her Instagram post, the surfer, Maud Le Car, says she lost a bet hence the get up. But the clip description on YouTube is a but more political: "Being a sexy pro surfer is one thing and being a skilled and accomplished pro surfer is another... Pro surfer Maud Le Car wants you to know that female pro surfers can look glamor and talented at the same time. She wants to prove that surfing is not just about glamor. Surfing is one of the most physically demanding sports there today." I'm not entirely convinced of what kind of awareness it raises, but you know. I get it. Oh look, I made comment!

Hopefully it ends very soon... I've been avoiding watching this clip all day but it got sent to me in an email* and, after watching it, I can honestly say I have seen few things more pointless and lame and irritating than that clip. The money, the time, the image of a Red Bull sponsored guy gunning past a woman on a SUP and Tahitian men in a waka is mortifying. It is everything I hate about Red Bull sponsored everything, in one tidy clip. When I watched this clip, I didn't see the new horizons of human endeavour. Instead all I saw was a waste of money, time and human capacity and ingenuity. And this is coming from someone who believes in art, music and sport. Near the end I was actively cheering on the heaving wall of whitewash, wishing it would engulf that fool and smash his stupid contraption, but then I realised that if it did, petrol would flood into the crystal waters in that lagoon. How was this even a thing that happened in this place? How did they even get per...

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