Oh and I also found the site for this film, The Women and the Waves, by Heather Hudson and Peck Euwer, and which, let's be honest, looks right up my alley!!
And it doesn't look like it's full of the usual suspects - Belinda Baggs, Kassia Meador, Layne Beachley, Keala Kenelly - who are wonderful women and surfers, but how many times can I hear their ideas and their stories before I have them memorised? I really want to hear about women who surf outside of the professional world, but those stories remain hidden from view. I'm so sick of hearing friends (even my most intelligent and thoughtful friends) remind me over and over,
But surfing has been about men, you can't deny that. Men have made surfing culture what it is. Women just weren't involved til recently.
But they have been and and they are and (frangipanis aside) films like this one bring these stories out.